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Ángel León to showcase his new marine offal at MF 2023
Fish cuisine will also be on hand from Alberto Ferruz, Aitor Arregi, Diego Murciego, Carlos del Portillo and Iván Domínguez
Fish cuisine will be at Madrid Fusión in some very different formats. Ángel León (Aponiente***, Puerto de Santa María) will be on stage showcasing the new marine offal. Another unknown and astounding facet of the chef who has developed the best relationship with the sea in the last decade. The 'cookery inspired by light' talk by Alberto Ferruz (BonAmb**, Spain) is a homage to 'l'encesa', a fishing technique going back a thousand years to when it was used on the cliffs of Alicante's Marina Alta. They went down paths and unstable wooden ladders to where cliff and sea meet. There they availed themselves of carbide to illuminate the sea, and waited for fish to come to the surface, drawn up by the light. Men from the countryside who were not professional fishermen risked their lives each winter night to take home a little more than money. Like an archaeologist chef, Ferruz reveals the secrets of his adopted land, and produces a perfect combination of sea produce with herbs such as thyme, rosemary, pebrella, samphire and lavender, which grow near the cliffs.
The sea in the big city
From zero to haute cuisine - this is the project by Diego Murciego (Desde 1911, Madrid). The challenge of successfully devising a new menu every day. Or how to take the sea to the big city. A different menu every day, crafted in only a few hours from the produce collected from Spanish fish markets. Another mariner on dry land, Carlos del Portillo (Bistronómika, Madrid), has made his project another exponent of the sea in the capital of Spain, and he will be on hand at Madrid Fusión to talk about his daily work around fishing seasons, origins, maturing processes and cuts. The talk by Galician chef Iván Domínguez (Nado, A Coruña), meanwhile, will be based on cooking with sea water. A testimony to the applications of an ingredient as abundant as it is forgotten.
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